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The US is divided into 13 different hardiness zones, representing the lowest average temperature of that region, although most fall into the first 11 zones. This helps gardeners and homeowners determine what they can grow in their yard. This can help you a great deal with planning what to plant and what not to.

If you’re not sure what your hardiness zone is, then you can check it by entering your ZIP code on the USDA site. Then, read on to find out which plants are the best for your hardiness zone.

Zones 1-2

Zones 1 and 2 experience very low temperatures, so you should look for cold hardy plants when planning what to grow. Lots of vegetables are suitable for growing in these zones, such as broccoli, cabbage, lettuce, kale, and asparagus. If you also want to plant perennials, then you can look to native plants, as these are equipped to grow in that climate. Perennials like Yarrow, Columbine, and Delphinium are also good for zone 1.

Zones 3-4

Many of the zone 1 and 2 vegetables are ideal for zones 3 and 4, as well. You can add others like potatoes, winter squash, and sweet peas. Add some color to your garden, too, with plants like Bergenia, Hosta, and Siberian Bugloss that grow especially well in zone 3.

Zones 5-6

Zones 5-6 represent more medium temperatures, so plants suited to these zones don’t do well in weather that’s too hot or too cold. You’ve got a much greater range of perennials to grow in these zones thanks to the warmer temperatures. Lilies, Lavender, Poppies, and Peonies all do well in these zones. You can also plant trees like Douglas Firs, Yews, Pin Oaks, and Forsythias.

Zones 7-8

North Carolina generally falls into these hardiness zones. You’ll have a longer growing season compared to the cooler zones and fewer restrictions on what to grow. Things like artichoke, rhubarb, and strawberries are ideal. Fruit trees like apples, pears, and cherries are also suited here, as are a lot of popular herbs. You’ll also have long lists of perennials to choose from, including Hibiscus, Butterfly bush, and Lantana.

Zones 9-10

With warmer climates, some plants and vegetables aren’t suited to these zones due to the heat. Things like melons, tomatoes, peppers, and sweet peas are good for growing in the cooler months. You can add a lot of color to your yard with flowers in these zones. Try out coneflowers, dahlias, daffodils, and hydrangeas.

Zones 11-13

Not many areas of the US fall into these zones, but for those that do, the things you plant need to be able to thrive in warmer temperatures. Edible plants you can grow in this heat are quite varied, including bananas, citrus fruits, sweet potato, mangoes, and pineapple. The Old Farmer’s Almanac also lists plants such as Geraniums and Marigolds for these regions.

Informed by your hardiness zone, you can plan the perfect garden that will respond well to the temperatures of your region.

Here are some plants that thrive well in each zone, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture:

Zone 1

Average annual minimum temperature below -50 degrees

Betula glandulosa (dwarf birch)

Empetrum nigrum (black crowberry)

Populus tremuloides (quaking aspen)

Potentilla pensylvanica (Pennsylvania cinquefoil)

Rhododendron lapponicum (Lapland rhododendron)

Salix reticulata (netleaf willow)

Zone 2

Average annual minimum temperature -50 to -40 degrees

Betula papyrifera (paper birch)

Cornus canadensis (bunchberry)

Elaeagnus commutata (silverberry)

Larix laricina (eastern larch)

Dasiphora fruticosa (shrubby cinquefoil)

Viburnum opulus var. americanum (American cranberry-bush)

Zone 3

Average annual minimum temperature -40 to -30 degrees

Acer saccharum (sugar maple)

Elaeagnus angustifolia (Russian olive)

Hydrangea paniculata (panicle hydrangea)

Juniperus communis (common juniper)

Lonicera tatarica (Tatarian honeysuckle)

Malus baccata (Siberian crabapple)

Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Virginia creeper)

Spiraea x vanhouttei (Van Houtte spirea)

Thuja occidentalis (American arborvitae)

Zone 4

Average annual minimum temperature -30 to -20 degrees

Berberis thunbergii (Japanese barberry)

Juniperus chinensis (Chinese juniper)

Ligustrum obtusifolium subsp. suave (Amur privet)

Ligustrum vulgare (common privet)

Parthenocissus tricuspidata (Boston ivy)

Taxus cuspidata (Japanese yew)

Zone 5

Average annual minimum temperature -20 to -10 degrees

Acer palmatum (Japanese maple)

Cornus florida (flowering dogwood)

Cotoneaster microphyllus (small-leaf cotoneaster)

Deutzia gracilis (slender deutzia)

Euonymus fortunei (winter-creeper)

Rosa multiflora (multiflora rose)

Zone 6

Average annual minimum temperature -10 to 0 degrees

Buxus sempervirens (common boxwood)

Cedrus atlantica (Atlas cedar)

Hedera helix (English ivy)

Ilex opaca (American holly)

Ligustrum ovalifolium (California privet)

Prunus laurocerasus (cherry-laurel)

Taxus baccata (English yew)

Zone 7

Average annual minimum temperature of 0 to 10 degrees

Acer macrophyllum (bigleaf maple)

Rhododendron Kurume Group (Kurume azalea)

Ilex aquifolium (English holly)

Zone 8

Average annual minimum temperature 10 to 20 degrees

Arbutus unedo (strawberry-tree)

Choisya ternata (Mexican orange)

Olearia x haastii (New Zealand daisy-bush)

Pittosporum tobira (Japanese pittosporum)

Viburnum tinus (laurustinus) 

Zone 9

Average annual minimum temperature of 20 to 30 degrees

Asparagus setaceus (asparagus-fern)

Eucalyptus globulus (Tasmanian blue gum)

Fuchsia hybrids (fuchsia)

Grevillea robusta (silky-oak)

Schinus molle (California pepper-tree)

Syzygium paniculatum (Australian brush-cherry)

Zone 10

Average annual minimum temperature of 30 to 40 degrees

Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea)

Cassia fistula (golden shower)

Corymbia citriodora (lemon-scented gum)

Ficus elastica (rubber plant)

Ensete ventricosum (Abyssinian-banana)

Roystonea regia (royal palm)

Joseph here, owner of lotsofplants.com.  I would like to introduce myself, let you know a little about my background and what led me to creating lotsofplants.com.  In 2004, I started a small landscape company here in Winston Salem, NC.  I taught myself how to install shrubs and trees- sun or shade- evergreen or deciduous- fast growing or dwarf.  Does my client have a neighbor to gain privacy from?  Does my client have young children- no spiky plants.  Does my client want spiky plants to protect their property from trespassers?  Do they love flowers?  Do they dislike bees?  Really there was so much to learn, everyone has their particular preferences and needs.  It has always been my job to figure out what those were and provide them with solutions.

Over time, I became quite good at it for one main reason.  I planted shrubs and trees that fit their needs and grew into what they expected and didn’t die.  That’s the most important part, my plantings generally do not die.  Why do my plantings not die?  I’m not watering them, I’m not even checking on them.  Reason is, I choose plants that are tough enough for the environmental conditions they are in and I plant no smaller than 3 gallon plants.

When installing plantings in the landscape I must choose plants that are at least 3 gallon in size.  Many online retailers sell very small what we in the shrub industry “plugs”.  I also buy many many plugs every year for lotsofplants.com.  My plugs are re potted into larger pots, then I grow them for one or two years depending on the variety.  When I say grow, I use cold frame greenhouses, timed irrigation, specialty fertilizers, and much care to get them to a sufficient size to plant out in the yard.  Basically, “plugs” are something that growers use to create products for the homeowner.  Homeowners should never buy plugs online or anywhere else expecting that that plant will eventually grow up and become what they imagined when looking at the beautiful photos online.  Some might survive if your lucky, most probably wont.

At lotsofplants.com I created a company that provides homeowners with plantings that are ready to plant straight out in the yard.  As long as your choosing the right plant for the right location, your plant should grow to its stated potential.  As a landscaper and experienced grower of shrubs and trees, I want to provide plant lovers with shrubs that might not be available your town that can survive for the long term and meet the needs of your preferred landscape.  If you have questions about our plants or wonder if we have plants that are not listed, or if you need help deciding what to plant, shoot us an email, we will be glad to help in any way we can.

Thanks and happy planting!  Joseph at lotsofplants.com

It may be cold outside, but spring is on the horizon. Winter is the best time to start preparing your garden and planning for spring. Plus, there are plenty of winter-blooming plants that you can focus on right now to add some life to your yard. If you’re looking for some inspiration in the dead of winter, here are some of the best plants for sale online that you could order right now.

Camellia

This shrub flowers through winter and spring, adding splashes of pink to your garden. Since it’s an evergreen shrub, it’ll provide some nice greenery throughout the year, too. They do well out of direct sunlight, which is one of the reasons they’re suited to winter. They also grow best on rainwater, which is often in abundance during these months. Camellias require acidic soil, so they may need to be grown in pots if your soil is more alkaline.

Firethorn

Firethorn, or Pyracantha, is another evergreen plant that does well in the winter. It flowers in the summer but also grows bright berries that can survive the winter. If you mulch around its base, then Firethorn plants stand up well even in freezing conditions. It is generally a low-maintenance plant, making it ideal for those winter months where you’d rather stay inside.

Heather

Heathers are a diverse category of evergreen plants that produce a variety of colors and grow in slightly different conditions. Winter-flowering heathers include Erica carnea and E. × darleyensis, which have many of their own varieties. Heather primarily blooms with pinks, purples, and white, providing a nice colored landscape for your garden. When growing heather through winter, just make sure there is plenty of mulch or compost for it to feed on.

Hellebore

Often referred to as the Christmas rose, Hellebore is an ideal plant for the winter. They tend to flower from late in the winter and into spring, so now is a great time to plant them. To improve their appearance and to make them stand out, you may need to trim back the plants’ leaves to reveal the flowers. This will also improve the health of the plant.

Holly

That timeless Christmassy plant, holly can brighten up the garden with its rich greens and reds throughout winter. There are a variety of types of holly, both trees and shrubs. In order to produce their berries, you will need both a male and female holly plant to ensure that the female plant can sprout its berries. Male plants cannot grow the berries themselves.

Winter is one of the best times to order plants online. You can get the plants you want without having to leave the warmth and comfort of your home. Check out Lots of Plants to see what outdoor and indoor plants for sale we have available.

Hydrangeas fill the garden with color each summer, with a spectrum of colors. As the season progresses, the blossoms turn shades of cream, pale green, red brown and copper.
Dried arrangements in your home can continue the show, simply by following these simple steps to dry your hydrangea blooms.

When to Cut

Let the flowers dry naturally on the plants. This usually happens from August through October. They will ready when the petals take on a kind of vintage look, or when they mature to the color of parchment paper, often with tints of pink or green. The flowers may also feel papery. Don’t cut hydrangeas when the blooms are at their peak, or during a rainy spell. The stems and leaves will hold too much water, and the flowers won’t dry fast enough to stay pretty. Don’t wait too long either, when flowers are completely brown. Snip the flowers on a cool morning and cut the stems at an angle, ranging from 12 to 18 inches. Strip off the leaves, and put the stems in a jar of water that covers the stems about halfway.

Drying

The different lengths of stems will help keep them at different heights, so they get good air circulation. Put the jar in a cool spot out of direct or bright light, and check periodically. The blooms should be ready in about two weeks, but if they’re not, add a little more water and give them more time. You can display them while you’re doing this.

If you’d rather, hang the stems upside down to dry, individually or in small bunches. Keep them in a cool, dry spot out of direct sun. Check them periodically for dryness.

Another way to dry the blooms is with glycerin, which you can purchase from most drugstores. Again, cut the stems at an angle and strip off the leaves. Then crush the ends of the stems with a hammer. Mix two parts water to one part glycerin in a jar and add the flowers. As the stems take up the mixture, the glycerin turns the petals golden brown. They’re ready when the water evaporates. If you like, you can add a drop of dye to the jar for a hint of color.

Finally, you can dry hydrangeas in silica or white sand. Simply put the flowers in a plastic container and completely cover them with the silica or sand. Remove them after two to four days and gently shake them clean. Use your dried hydrangea flowers in vases, wreaths, bouquets and craft projects. As long as they’re kept out of direct light and humidity, they should last indefinitely.

When it comes to growing and maintaining a healthy garden, soil tests are often overlooked. These tests measure soil health and fertility, are generally inexpensive, and well worth the effort when it comes to creating a productive garden space. What does a soil test show? How often should you do it?

What Does Testing Soil Show?

A soil test can determine the health of your soil. By measuring both the pH level and nutrient deficiencies, a soil test can provide the information necessary for keeping the most optimal fertility each year. Most plants, including grasses, flowers, and vegetables, grow well in slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Azaleas, gardenias and blueberries prefer a bit higher acidity in order to reach their growth potential. Having a soil test can make it easier to determine the current acidity, allowing you to pinpoint the deficiencies and correct them.

How Often Should I Test?

Soil samples can be done any time of the year, fall being preferable. They are normally taken each year or simply as needed. While many companies or gardening centers offer soil testing kits, you can usually obtain a soil test for free or low cost through your local county extension office. Try not to have the soil tested whenever the soil is wet or when it’s been recently fertilized.

What Do I Need for the Sample?

To take a sample for testing garden soil, use a trowel to take small slices of soil from various areas of the garden. Allow it to air dry at room temperature and then place it into a clean plastic container or seal-able plastic baggie. Label the soil area and date for testing. Now that you know the importance of getting a soil test, you can better manage your garden plants by making the appropriate adjustments from your soil test results.

Plants for the Garden

Now that your soil is tested, its time to look for new additions for your garden. Browse our hydrangeas, which has blooms that can change colors depending on your soil pH level. Or check out our more tolerant butterfly bushes to add winged friends to your garden. Azaleas are another shrub for acidic soil levels. Or our camellias for lovely late fall and winter blooms.

The word Hydrangea can often bring several different visual images to mind. Some with huge blooms, some formed more into a tree, some climbing up the chimney of a home. There are many different groups of hydrangeas with many different colors, blooms and growth habits.

Bigleaf Hydrangeas

Bigleaf hydrangeas are divided into two classes–the mopheads and the lacecaps. A common shrub in the southeast, there are many varieties of each group. Both mopheads and lacecaps bloom in the summer. These hydrangeas have large leaves, giving it a coarse texture in summer, carrying into the winter with unbranched, vertical stems to carry over the texture. Being decidious, these plants have a lovely fall leaf display also. Our Cityline Hydrangea line falls into this category with a variety of colors and plants to choose from, like the Cityline Rio, shown at left.
The flower color of some of these hydrangeas depend on the pH of the soil. Although there are many exceptions, a certain pH will result in blue flowers or pink flowers. Bigleaf hydrangeas need a moist but well-drained spot in your garden. Full sun to part shade is necessary with more shade being necessary in the South. Do any pruning immediately after flowering; this shrub flowers on the previous season’s growth, though there are some exceptions. Generally these plants are hardy to zone 5.

Panicle Hydrangeas

Panicle hydrangeas are reliable bloomers, low maintenance, hardy hydrangeas.  Since they bloom on new growth each summer, there is no chance for the flower buds to be damaged by winter cold because they simply haven’t been formed yet. The result is a show of gorgeous blooms every year from mid to late summer well into fall. Often they can be large and even trained into a tree type form. Hardy to zone 3. Here at Lots of Plants, we carry the Limelight Hydrangea and the Little Lime Hydrangea plants that fall into this category.

Smooth Hydrangeas

These easy to grow hydrangeas are recommended for full sun to part shade. Full sun can only be tolerated with regularly moist but well drained soil. Blooms occurs on new wood, so plants may be pruned back close to the ground in late winter to revitalize and to encourage vigorous stem growth and best form. If not pruned back, any damaged stems can be removed in early spring. The Incrediball Hydrangea is a deciduous shrub with a rounded habit which can grow approximate 5 feet tall and 5 feet wide.  Large blooms – sometimes up to 12″ across –  occur in June for up to two month. With sturdier stems than the more widely known ‘Annabelle’, Incrediball is a lovely example of a smooth hydrangea.

Climbing Hydrangeas

Beginning slowly and establishing a shrub type habit, these vines become vigorous by producing long stems or aerial roots. Foliage is thick and green and in summer, covered with white lacecap blooms. This strong hydrangea needs no trellis and climbs walls with ease. Growing 30 to 80 feet, it can still be trimmed to shorter heights. Being deciduous, it shades walls in summer and lets the sun warm them during winter, thus helping to conserve energy. Climbing Hydrangeas bloom on new growth and are hardy zone 3 to 7.

Mountain Hydrangeas

Very similar to the Bigleaf Hydrangeas, this group was formerly grouped with lacecap hydrangea due to its flat flower heads. Generally it is a more compact plant with smaller flowers and leaves, with a weeping habit. Blooming on old wood, it is best to trim only when necessary. Plants are hardy down to zone 5. The Tuff Stuff series of these kinds of hydrangeas are a well know variety.

Oakleaf Hydrangea

The Oakleaf hydrangea is one of the few hydrangeas native to the United States The Oakleaf hydrangea is a dramatic, white-blooming shrub with four seasons of interest. It blooms best in areas where summers are somewhat hot, but it is winter hardy farther north. Plants are generally less picky about soil and environment. The Oakleaf gets its name from the shape of its beautiful large leaves. These leaves often turn colors of brilliant red, orange, yellow and burgundy in the fall if planted in a sunny location with a little afternoon shade. The Gatsby series is a popular variety of this hydrangea.

A plant feeds and consumes energy from the sun through a system called Photosynthesis. Plants take in the sun’s energy and converts its energy to keep itself alive. That is why plants grow towards the light. Now that you know that, we all see light requirements for various plants saying full sun, part sun, full shade, part shade; what’s the definition of all those and the difference? It is simple to know all the light needs for plants.

Part Sun vs. Part Shade

When I first saw these and was confused, I asked myself – are they the same? Does half the plant need to be in sun and the other half in shade? Partial sun or partial shade labels both mean a plant needs three to six hours of sun each day, but they carry a different emphasis. Partial shade plants need protection all day except those three to six hours per day. Partial shade plants often do best when they receive direct morning sun, but stay sheltered in the afternoon. The morning sun is less harsh in the morning compared to the afternoon sun, pretty much why we need good sun block in the afternoon sun because we all will get burned more easily with the intense afternoon sun. Partial sun plants, greater emphasis is placed on it receiving at least the minimum three hours. When you see “part sun” used, the grower is stressing that the plant requires at least three hours of sun and will likely do better with closer to six hours. When you see “part shade” used, the grower is stressing that the plant should not receive more than six hours of sun and will likely do better with less.

Full Sun

Full sun plants thrive when they receive unobstructed, direct sun all day. The more natural sun they receive, the better they do. As a minimum, plants in this category need at least six hours of direct, full sun each day to function effectively. If they don’t receive enough sun, they often lose their normal color and fail to bloom or bear fruit. Full sun is probably the trickiest level of exposure because while many plants need full sun to set buds and flower, some cannot handle the intense heat and/or dry conditions that often come with that much sunshine. One way around this is to plant the more sensitive plants where they will get more morning sun, than afternoon. It’s cooler in the morning and as long as the plants get at least 6 hours of direct sunlight, they should grow well.

Full Shade

Full shade plants perform best when they receive less than three hours of daily sun. Even a spot of all day sporadic filtered sunlight will work, meaning plants set under large trees with broken sunlight reaching the ground. If in an area of that three hours of direct sunlight, morning sun that is less intense than afternoon is best.

There are other obvious factors that affect how plants react to sun. Knowing where you live is helpful as well. Latitude, elevation, time of year and time of day all matter. The farther south you go in North America, the more intense the sun becomes. The closer you are to the sun, the more potent its rays. In midsummer, noontime sun burns hotter than in midwinter. Morning and late-afternoon rays are gentle compared with early afternoon. Plants that tolerate full summer sun in northern climates may need afternoon protection in southern and western regions. These technical details aren’t as important as the general understanding of full sun, part sun, full shade and part shade mentioned above. You are now ready to choose what plant is right for that area in your landscape that receives full sun, some sun, or no sun!

Too much water in parts of many landscapes is a problem for some home owners. Keep in mind, there is a difference in areas that are slow draining with soil that stays wet for periods of time, and flooded, soggy areas in landscapes. The problem can be one that occurs all year long, seasonal, may be drainage overflow, or flow to a low point in the yard. Whatever the reason, there is a way of turning a moist, slow draining area to your advantage. Some plants and shrubs thrive in wet areas, and with the right ones you can still achieve an interesting and attractive landscape.

Problems vary with damp areas in your landscape. It is often hard to get plants and shrubs to grow in these areas unless the right ones are chosen. Mosquitoes and other annoying insects are encouraged by soggy areas in your landscape so pests can be a problem for your plant. Moist areas can often emit an unpleasant smell, as well as visually make an area look quite ugly. Choosing the right damp soil tolerant plant is a great step in correcting these problems. Its good to note there is a difference in certain damp soil tolerant shrubs doing well in slow draining areas, and these tolerant shrubs not doing well in areas with constant standing water.

There are a number of damp soil tolerant shrubs to choose from – what it boils down to is personal preference. Hydrangeas come in a magnitude of colors and sizes and need more water to remain healthy. A friend of mine planted hydrangeas near their down spout and the plant took off and flourished. Because your front yard is a public space, use hydrangeas to frame and present your home; its entrance and other important features such as windows and porches, all which could be near gutter drains that sometimes overflow. Hydrangeas love moisture, in fact, its name comes from the Latin term hydra, which means water.

Another good choice are azaleas. They can handle moderate moist soil that drains within a couple hours. Azaleas has a shallow root system so regular watering is a necessity so the roots do not get dried out. Moisture evaporates easily in the upper 3 to 4 inches of soil, especially in dry climates. They grow well when given 1 inch of water once a week. Azaleas are a flowering shrub in the genus Rhododendron. Rhododendrons generally have much larger leaves and their flowers are bell shaped and have ten or more stamens, while azalea blooms are typically funnel shaped and have five stamens. Azaleas are more accommodating for landscapes and are more versatile for home owners. Azaleas are a one stop shop when it comes to beauty between the gorgeous, glossy hunter green foliage and the choices among many different colors to fit any setting in landscapes. Plant a low-growing border to soften the appearance of irregular or uneven ground. Areas where slight regular run off occurs in your landscape during showers and creates irregular or uneven ground is a poplar choice for azaleas.

No matter the area in your landscape with excess water in one form or another, it is best to know your yard in terms of why, when, and how much those areas get more water than other parts. Some areas could require a bit of landscape engineering which could be as simple as building up a low point so water does not pool for long periods of time or building up certain areas to direct water flow. No matter the water loving parts of landscapes, there is a moist soil tolerant plant out there for you.

Deciduous shrubs are shrubs that lose their leaves in fall. They also give seasonal color and texture to your garden that changes throughout the year. If chosen correctly, a grouping of these can offer a wide variety of interest throughout the year with their flowers, leaves, fruit and bark.

Several of this kind of shrubs can grow rapidly and may require some pruning every year. Pruning is done just after the shrub flowers, regardless of the time of year. Trimming older shoots back to ground level is a common practice. Pruning is best when one third to one fourth of the older stems are removed each year. Deciduous shrubs can often tolerate difficult growing conditions and have few serious insect or disease problems. Aphids or mites are easily controlled occasional pests.

Here at Lots of Plants, we offer several low maintenance deciduous shrubs with multiple seasons of interest:

  •  Forsythia

    • Show Off® Forsythia and Show Off® Starlet Forsythia. Abundant yellow flowers are often considered to be the first sure sign of spring. They are easily grown on almost any soil but prefer full sun. The Show Off Forsythia grows to a mature height of 5 to 6 feet, and the Show Off Starlet Forsythia is a dwarf version growing only to 2 to 3 feet.
  • Flowering Quince

    • The breed of this plant known as Double Take™ was created to flower beautifully without the thorns of traditional quince. We have 3 varieties of this – Orange Storm, Scarlet Storm and Pink Storm. Lustrous green foliage appears soon after the thick flowering blooms have opened. The large yellow-green applelike fruits are not very pretty overall, but can be used to make jellies.
  • Spirea

  • Hydrangea

    • Known for their immense flowering heads, hydrangeas display an old-fashion charm that can’t be resisted. These tolerate almost any soil and produce flowers mid summer through fall. The Cityline® series has colors for your landscape from around the world. The Cityline® RioParis, BerlinVienna, Venice, and  Mars Hydrangea offers colors from clear blue, frosty white, rich red, vibrant pink, soft lavender, deep purple, and various shades of green. One that is considered the big brother to the other are the Limelight Hydrangea and the Little Lime®Hydrangea. Both starting off as a subtle pistachio, lime-green flower in summer, transforming into a salmon pink with autumn, then to a dark burgundy through the winter months. Limelight Hydrangea reaches a mature height of 8 feet and a width of 6 feet while the Little Lime® Hydrangea reaches a mature height of 5 feet and a width of 3 feet. One last hydrangea to mention is quite incredible, hence the name: Incrediball® Hydrangea. Blooms that reach up to 12″, this hydrangea captivates all eyes.
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